The ‘Bilbao effect’ – the idea that a world-class cultural institution can revitalise a lesser-known city, as seen with the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao – has been a point of interest in urban development. Though often contested, a similar phenomenon has emerged in nearby San Sebastián. Here, however, the primary draw isn’t art but food. With one of the highest concentrations of Michelin stars in Europe, San Sebastián has become a destination for culinary tourism, attracting visitors from across the globe. Among the city’s celebrated establishments is Akelarre, a renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurant led by chef Pedro Subijana since 1975, which has played a pivotal role in shaping the region’s gastronomic identity.
Located on the rugged cliffs overlooking the Bay of Biscay, Akelarre achieved its first Michelin star in 1978, its second in 1982 and its third in 2007. In 2017, Subijana expanded the Akelarre experience by opening a boutique hotel adjacent to the restaurant, allowing guests to enjoy both a fine dining and luxurious hospitality experience. Now part of the Relais & Châteaux collection, Akelarre delivers a high standard of service and attention to detail, catering to guests seeking an immersive, upscale escape in the Basque Country.
A private escape with panoramic views
The 22-room Akelarre hotel was designed by the Madrid-based architectural firm Mecanismo, whose approach integrates the building with the surrounding landscape. Set into the hillside, the hotel’s design allows each room to offer ocean views and a sense of seclusion. Each guest room is equipped with a private terrace, creating a seamless indoor-outdoor experience that makes the most of the stunning views over the Bay of Biscay.
The hotel offers a range of accommodations, from standard rooms to the spacious Akelarre Ocean Suites. These feature private plunge pools, allowing guests to enjoy an extra touch of privacy and luxury. The interior design emphasises modern comfort, with thoughtful details such as Bang & Olufsen sound systems, large high-definition televisions with Netflix and Apple TV, and a variety of local and sustainable products, including Pur Purr bath amenities.
In line with its commitment to sustainability, the hotel incorporates eco-friendly elements throughout the guest experience. QR codes provide access to a range of services and information, from in-room dining options to details on the hotel’s eco-conscious practices. This digital approach enhances convenience while reducing paper waste, aligning with the hotel’s broader environmental initiatives.
Michelin stars with Basque soul
At the heart of Akelarre is its three-Michelin-starred restaurant, where chef Subijana presents innovative, seasonally driven menus that celebrate Basque flavours. The restaurant has long attracted food enthusiasts and critics alike, with its intricate, artful dishes and dedication to local ingredients. The culinary experience is designed to showcase both the traditional and modern aspects of Basque cuisine, with a focus on sustainability and ingredient sourcing.
For guests seeking a more casual dining option, or on Mondays when the main restaurant is closed, Akelarre also offers Oteiza, a second on-site restaurant. Named after the Basque sculptor Jorge Oteiza, it provides a relaxed environment and a menu featuring Basque classics. Designed with retrofuturist elements, Oteiza’s mid-century-inspired decor includes warm wood panelling, low lighting and expansive windows with cliffside views, creating an inviting yet sophisticated atmosphere.
Oteiza’s à la carte menu includes a selection of traditional Basque dishes reimagined with a modern twist. Standout offerings include the egg foam wrapped in Iberico ham, marinated anchovies, fresh tuna belly carpaccio topped with wasabi ice cream, and the roasted suckling pig with crispy puffed potato. The attentive staff provide guidance on menu choices and wine pairings, ensuring a refined yet accessible dining experience. Diners are encouraged to take in the views as the sun sets, providing a memorable prelude to the meal.
A wellness retreat with coastal views
Akelarre’s wellness centre provides guests with an opportunity to unwind in a tranquil, luxurious setting. Spanning over 8,600ft2, the wellness centre features a range of facilities designed for relaxation and rejuvenation. The spa area includes a black marble-lined indoor pool equipped with hydromassage jets, as well as a marble steam room and a sauna. Guests can also enjoy a selection of treatments in the spa’s three treatment rooms, including one dedicated to couples’ treatments, where natural and locally sourced products are used.
For guests interested in maintaining their fitness regimen, Akelarre’s wellness centre includes a modern fitness area. However, many guests may opt to simply relax on one of the spa’s comfortable loungers, taking in the panoramic views of the Bay of Biscay. During warmer months, the outdoor cocktail bar on the terrace offers a scenic spot to enjoy a drink while overlooking the ocean. The hotel also features a library for those seeking a quiet retreat, providing a variety of reading materials in a cosy, contemplative space.
Discovering the Basque region
A 15-minute drive from San Sebastián’s historic centre, Akelarre provides easy access to the city’s beaches, pintxo bars and cultural sites. San Sebastián’s old town is famous for its culinary scene, with a variety of pintxo bars serving small plates that showcase the region’s flavours. For visitors interested in experiencing the city’s local dining culture, it is recommended to spend at least one evening exploring these establishments, where informal dining and high-quality ingredients converge.
Akelarre’s location is ideal for guests who wish to incorporate the hotel into a broader exploration of the Basque Country. San Sebastián is a popular stop along the Camino de Santiago, particularly the Camino del Norte route, which winds along Spain’s northern coast. This route offers picturesque coastal walks, providing a unique way to experience the Basque landscape. For wine enthusiasts, the nearby Rioja region offers an opportunity to explore Spanish winemaking traditions. Located within a short drive from Akelarre, Rioja’s vineyards and wineries offer tastings and tours that delve into the history and techniques of Spanish viticulture.
San Sebastián is also a gateway to other Basque destinations, making day trips to Biarritz and Bilbao easily accessible. The coastal city of Biarritz, located just over the French border, is known for its charming architecture and surf-friendly beaches. Meanwhile, Bilbao, approximately an hour from San Sebastián, is home to the Guggenheim Museum, a world-renowned institution that continues to attract visitors from around the world. For those interested in exploring the Basque Country’s cultural and natural attractions, Akelarre’s location serves as a convenient and luxurious base.
Akelarre offers a combination of fine dining, luxury accommodation and thoughtful amenities that appeal to travellers seeking both culinary and cultural experiences. Its location on the Bay of Biscay, commitment to sustainability, and range of services make it a standout option for those visiting the Basque Country.
